Sunday, May 5, 2013

       Lets see here, this story should start at the beginning  I was in Joshua Tree, California and made the bonehead move of sending a picture of the scenery to the wrong Mike. On the other end of the text message was Mike B. I have climbed with Mike before but it had been quite a while. So plans were made to go on  an adventure climb located in the wild and scenic Linville Gorge of North Carolina.
       Our objective for the day was a multipitch route that is notorious for difficulties beyond the published grade, Apricot Jam. To tell you that this route is only 300 feet tall, and only has 4 pitches, and only has free climbing at a grade of 5.9+ is not telling the whole story. Apricot Jam was first established in the 1970's by a classic NC climber named Bob Rotert. He has authored some of the most demanding lines in the state from that era. He notoriously would underrate free climbs and his routes have earned a reputation for sandbaggery. More than once have strong climbers scurried away from his climbs cursing for their ego has been put in check.
       On the morning of our climb Mike and I meet at the Table Rock parking lot. We had been keeping an eye on the weather as the forecast had looked grim. We were not dissapointed. The ambient air temperature was around 45 to 50 degrees. There were trails of mist and clouds hanging low to the ground. Ominous foreshadowing for what lay in store for us.
      On our approach to the Apricot buttress we walked through areas where the ground was at the limit of moisture which made for muddy boots and pants. Not to be deterred we continued our slog to where the trail for our objective breaks off from the Mountains to Sea trail. It is barely more than a place where you duck into the thick foliage that dominates the landscape of the Linville gorge. To call it a trail is a stretch, in fact it is so hidden that most first time visitors to this area had to be shown where the turn off is even located.
      As the trail winds down the hill to the rim of the gorge many broken logs have to be crossed either over or under. Bush pushing is the norm and not the exception. Cat-briers enantgle pants legs and won't let go without a fight. Until we reach the descent gully that is going to deposit us on the valley floor.
    The gully is strewn with dead trees and loose blocks and ropes that have been abandoned by climbers past. There was also at least one gorge rat also inhabiting the gully. Instead of trying to climb down the gully I find it easier to use a rope. We get all of our equipment strapped to us and begin the descent. Even in dry conditions this gully can pose some serious health risks. When it is running with water it only gets better. First rappel puts us on a small flat spot about halfway down the chute where we then anchor to another tree. At this point in the gully their is a full blown creek that the rope seems to be attracted to magnetically. With little hope of a dry rope we press on. When it is my turn to rappel again I begin down the rope and above me something starts to shift, barely looking up in time to deflect a piece of a tree that decided to follow me. Finally we are at the bottom of the gully and the base of the climb is only 100 feet away.
       At the bottom of the route we take a minute to change our shoes for more performance oriented footwear. While standing at the bottom of this route it is easy to stare up at the ominous looking roof that hang over your head. Seemingly blocking any easy way up. I can only say for myself but this route always stirs a little fear inside me about whether I will be able to overcome the challenges that moving over this piece of stone presents.
      The crux of the climb is in the opening moves on the first pitch. It is a bulging boulder problem. Their is a finger sized crack in the back of a corner. I use this for my left hand. Then their is a small flat ledge to the the right that I use for my right hand. With my feet high and located in awkward places I am able to roll into my right hand and move my left hand up and into what is for me a solid hand jam. From this position I am able to move my left foot up and onto a reasonable hold. I am still not out of the difficulties  I now have to stand up on that foot. With much effort I am able to pull with my left arm and then push down with my right hand.until I am able to balance and reach for the next good hold with my left hand. At this point I am able to get both of my feet under me and begin to look for more protection because at this point I am about 10 feet off the ground. All in all I think that this sequence checks in at a more realistic grade of 5.10.
      Slowly and with much control and balance I continue up the corner. placing protection along the way. As the corner keeps going up it makes a hard jog to the left. Overcoming this section with lots of trust in shoe rubber and serious lay-backing skills is the name of the game. After about 60 feet of climbing you reach a sloping ledge where the first belay is . Their are old pieces of webbing jammed in a crack left by other in a retreat. I place 2 cams and build the belay with this webbing as the 3rd component to my anchor. After my rope is attached to the anchor a call down to Mike, "off belay!".  The rope that is between us is pulled and stacked on this sloping ledge which surprisingly doesn't slide off because of how wet it is. Then with the rope going to Mike in a belay device attached to the anchor the call is made to Mike, "on belay!"
     He begins to try the moves to get off the ground but seems to be having a hard time with the sequence  Like a human yo-yo he climbs up a few feet then hangs on the rope and gets lowered back to the ground. You can hear the aggravation in his voice as the rock is unyielding to his efforts. Again he throws all of his efforts into upward movement only to be denied. Shouts of encouragement come from the belay as having been there only moments before I remembered exactly what the holds felt like. Eventually he rises to the occasion and gets established in the corner. He makes his way to the belay without much struggle.
      Above us is the giant roof. To the left is the easiest escape, a 5.9 corner with lots of exposure. To the right is another option, the Spectre Man variation that checks in at stout 5.10. We decide on the standard route that goes to the left. I begin off the belay and soon notice that the rock is now wet. At this point you start to weight the options. I begin to analyze, how wet is the rock? Are the key holds still usable? How much protection is available? Do I think that it is possible for either of us to climb this wet and lichen covered corner. In the end the decision is made to continue, after all I wouldn't have a very good story to tell if we just turned around.
      As the climb goes up and out of sight of the belay station protection opportunities become less straight forward. The rock where your handholds are is slick with water. The places for your feet seem to disappear. Somehow the moves are engineered to reach the top of this slot. At the top of the corner their is a ledge on the right where a rest from the difficulties can be had. When the rest is over and more gear has been placed I have one more obstacle on this pitch. A step left around  some sloping and wet rock. I grip onto the rock the best that I can and make the move that deposits me an easy 15 feet away from the next belay stance. As I am constructing our next life support station I begin to look around at all the mist that is accumulating. In one moment you can see the half mile or so to the opposite side of the gorge and the next you can hardly see 100 yards. A very ethereal experience, it seems that the world you see is growing  and shrinking at a very fast rate. The rope is tied to the anchor, "Off belay!".
      Mike makes his way up this pitch with no hesitation. When he reaches the belay we begin to swap gear and stories of how the previous difficulties were overcome.
      The next section checks in at the modest grade of 5.7, making it relatively easy and straight forward. As the time goes we become more chatty about other destinations. Dreaming about climbing trips is a favorite pastime for most climbers. We are adventurers by nature. We want that new experience. Things that don't make sense to non-climbers like why, just seems natural to climbers and don't need to be analyzed when in the company of like-minded individuals.
     For the most part this pitch is dryish. I am able to climb it in about 10-15 minutes. The next belay stance is reached, an anchor is built. "Off belay!"
    The last pitch makes a left rising slash underneath some other rock roofs and diving board looking overhangs. It is also running with water in the most demanding section. I do not usually bat an eye at 5.8 rock terrain but when it is dripping I begin to pay more attention. The climbing off the belay is easy and simple. I move up and place protection for myself and my partner. Then the fun begins.
    Pulling up into a section of wet rock, hope for keeping shoes and hands dry were quickly diminished. Pressing on with much attention given to the selection of holds, I step left. Then I move my hands again. Hanging by one dripping left hand I start to look for opportunities for gear. As quickly as possible the gear is inserted into a finger sized crack. The rope is clipped and I feel safe again. At this point I am almost out of the business but not without having to pull up and around one last section. The moves are made and I am standing on the rim of the gorge, "Off belay!".
    Mike quickly makes his way to the section of wet rock and realizes that with only 30 feet left to go, it is still not over. With a small amount of coaching he makes the moves, retrieves the gear, and is standing on the canyon rim with me. All in all a wonderful route in a beautiful setting, even if it is a little soupy. We high-five and exchange a laugh.
      On the way out we start to talk about doing another route at Table Rock. We form a list of objectives that we want to do. All seems to be going well except that the fog and mist that is accumulating in the air. The closer we get to parking lot the thicker the air becomes. By the time that we walk the 30 minutes back to our vehicles to retrieve a dry rope we notice that conditions are deteriorating rapidly. Without much discussion we realize that going out for another route in these conditions would not be very fun at all. We decide to call it a day.
      In looking back on our day and selection to do the route Apricot Jam, we realized that the overhangs and roofs that present the challenges on the route were the very thing that made it possible to climb at all.
The Linville Gorge never stops being an amazing place to share adventures with others. I hope that wild and scenic places like this continue to thwart the advance of man. Good times were had by all!